Too big to dance?

9 Apr

“You’re a good dancer, but you could lose some weight.”

The words that I have spent a good third of my life trying to avoid came at me full force after an adult ballet class I took a few days ago when I was out of town visiting my grandmother.

Hot-faced, I agreed with the teacher, knowing full well that at 5’2” and 122 pounds, I am practically morbidly obese in the dance world. I would have rather her told me that my turns weren’t sharp enough, my leg wasn’t high enough, my feet weren’t pointed enough—any criticism but that.

When I told my friend about the comment she was shocked that a stranger would tell me something like that to my face and asked, “Well, would they rather have a bad and skinny dancer?”

In the ballet world, companies expect girls who are technically brilliant and have about 3 % body fat. Horror stories about eating disorders run rampant, fueled by Black Swan* and other media portrayals of anorexia and bulimia in ballerinas. Some of it is overblown, but some of  it’s sad but true—dancers are constantly fighting their bodies and it’s often not acceptable for these high performing athletes to look like, well, athletes.

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            A New York Times dance critic called out New York City Ballet principal Jennifer Ringer for looking like she had eaten “one sugarplum too many;” an especially biting “review” because Ringer had recently opened up about her years-long struggle with eating disorders.

Misty Copeland, the first African American soloist in American Ballet Theatre in decades, says she’s been told to lose weight and struggles with being considered a “curvy” dancer.

misty-copeland1001

Misty Copeland. Too curvy? I think not.

I’ve known too many girls who are gorgeous dancers, wonderful people and, even though they don’t look like they have an ounce of fat on their bodies, are pressured by their directors to lose weight, lose weight, lose weight. No matter that these girls have almost perfect technique, are proportional, and look like women, not preteen boys.

I read an article about dancers’ bodies where someone argued that requiring such slenderness from dancers is a power play. Asking dancers to look like little girls keeps them acting like little girls—powerless.

The aesthetic is changing though. Contemporary choreography is more athletic—it asks for strong women who can perform full, powerful movements; not waifs floating through a fantasy world.

Take a look at what audiences are actually watching. Professional ballet companies are struggling—the digital age doesn’t have the patience (or the cashflow) for three hours of The Sleeping Beauty, but over 10 million viewers tuned in for the first season of Fox’s So You Think You Can Dance.

Image

Me just dancing around.

The dancers I can’t help but watch perform feats of intense physicality with the ease and stamina that only comes from well-developed and properly utilized muscles. They haven’t starved their souls into submission either—their personality and style shine because they have the strength to project themselves and fill up the space.**

I’m not sure if anyone reads this besides my mom, but if dear blogosphere, if you’re out there, thoughts?

*BLACK SWAN IS FICTION PEOPLE.

**Like Drew Jacoby of Jacoby and Pronk, all of the members of the Paul Taylor Dance Company and Pilobulus, Misty Copeland, and others.

I don’t practice Santeria, I ain’t go no crystal ball.

4 Apr

A few days ago, I was sitting in my friends’ kitchen, chatting and dunking freshly baked chocolate chip cookies into a class of soy milk (she was out of cow’s milk). I don’t remember exactly where the conversation went—probably discussing the relative merits of different types of dairy—but it led me to make an offhand comment.

            “Oh yeah, I’ve never seen a whole dead goat, but I saw a goat head one time.”

            Claire and her weekend guest looked at me with the type of horror and disgust people usually reserve for talking about incest.

            “Where? Why?”

            “Well, it was part of this Santeria sacrifice I saw on a road in Cuba.”

            Shocked silence.

            “There was this really auspicious tree on the road to the National Theater and the Plaza de la Revolucion. I always saw dead birds or offerings of fruit and stuff like that there.”

            When I stopped to think about it, I frequently almost stepped in quite a few piles of pieces of dead animal, paper, ribbons and other sundries that I realized were some sort of offering seconds before plunging my foot into that benevolent blessing (or something less friendly).

            Claire continued to stare, bewildered.

            I didn’t really know how to explain the whole phenomenon because it was one of those things that just sort of exists in Cuba and you are aware of, but you don’t worry too much about (like your eccentric 7th grade geography teacher’s dating life—he’s in his mid-thirties, he’s single, what does he do on the weekend? Whatever.)

            Honestly, I still don’t really know a whole lot about Cuban religions of African descent—I have a fuzzy understanding of the various gods and goddesses, the rituals and the doctrine. This is not meant to be an educational post on the goddess Yemaja or what exactly is an orisha—I’m fully admitting ignorance on 99.9% of these religions because, newsflash for the uninitiated, belief systems and codification of them is complicated. What this is meant to be is a commentary: Maybe there is not so much difference between a decapitated goat’s head outside of someone’s apartment and wearing a necklace with the image of a man painfully dying.

            Until you know the whole story, many things look strange at first glance.

            So I guess one man’s disemboweled bird is another man’s not eating cow.

 

[A lighter example: We were happily eating milk-soaked cookies, an American pastime, but my Mexican tutor told me that dunking cookies in milk is just weird to many people in the Yucatan, and not a thing.]

My foray into the world of Cuban health and beauty

5 Feb

Most all commerce and services in Cuba have a government run component, although there is an increasing number of legal private businesses and enterprises complementing (and competing with) them, thanks to reforms made by Raul in 2010. Banks: Government-run. Gas stations: Government-run. Grocery stores: Government-run. Laundry facilities: Government-run. Restaurants: Government-run.

The quality of the government-run institutions varies, but what it lacks in quality it makes up for in how inexpensive the goods and services are. (Side note: Can you imagine a government-run restaurant in the United States? What would it be, a room where you walk in and get an MRE?)

One example of a government-run institution that I recently fell in love with is a place called the Instituto de Salud y Belleza. It’s in a run-down, but still majestic, two-story mansion in the Vedado neighborhood, just a few blocks up from the malecon (the sea wall that encircles part of Havana city). In the Instituto, all of the prices are in moneda nacional, which roughly translates to “extremely cheap.” There, I got my hair cut for 11 national pesos, which is about $0.50. I got a mani/pedi for 27 national pesos, which is a little more than a dollar. I went to an invigorating (and highly entertaining) hour-long dance aerobics class in the small gym/weight room in the back for 3.50 national pesos, which is something like $0.05 or $0.10.

The class was in a room that made high school weight rooms look state of the art, with 15 or so ladies in spandex crammed in a 20’x20’ space, surrounded by water bottles filled with sand (which I think function as 5 lb weights). A few men were bench pressing rusty bars in between ogling the class, and at one point, the instructor played a salsa song and one or two of the guys jumped into the fray, grabbing a lady and twirling her around while sweat flew onto the probably already MRSA-ridden equipment.

Though the Instituto has most every service imaginable, from hair-dyeing to massages, they don’t wax anything besides the face. When I asked for waxing services there, I was directed to a lady who worked in the facials room named Enersi, who gave me her card and said she did what I wanted in her house. After about a week of back and forth texting to find a day that worked for all of us, my friend Berit and I ventured to her home to get what I suppose should be called a Cuban wax. We walked the streets of Vedado at eight o’clock in the evening, looking for her building. Across from Enersi’s apartment, against the dark night sky (Havana doesn’t have too many street lamps), we saw a meat-processing factory, a creepy brick building with a smoke stack and hazy orange lighting.

“Oh great,” I thought to myself, “This is going to be like Sweeny Todd. Enersi is the demon esthetician of 13th Street and we are going to be turned into ropa vieja and sold for 15 pesos.”

My fears of being a protagonist in a horror film continued when Enersi showed me into the room where she worked. There was a long chair/table that looked like someone had taken an ironing board and added armrests too it. A fluorescent bulb threw a sickly light on the room while Enersi spread an old hotel towel that had little brown dots caked on it on the glorified ironing board.

“Don’t worry, it’s clean,” she assured me, “It’s just the wax that dried and wouldn’t come off.”

As she heated up the bricks of caramel-colored wax, I asked her why she didn’t do waxing in the Instituto.

“It’s because there’s no wax,” she said, “The government can’t get wax to give us.”

“So where do you get it from?”

“I have a client who goes to Mexico and gets it for me,” she said, as she started working. I was relieved that she had professional grade wax, because I wouldn’t have been surprised if, in Cuba, they just poured on some candle wax and ripped it off with an old copy of the national newspaper, Granma.

“How did you learn how to do this?”

“I went to the national school and took a two year course, and we learned international beauty techniques,” she told me. I wondered if the government had any wax at the school, or if her training was all theoretical, like it is for medical students here who don’t have the necessary tools and medications to learn with.

“Do most of the people who work at the Instituto also work out of their homes?”

“Of course,” Enersi replied, “The money is better.” I wondered then, why she didn’t work exclusively out of her home or at a private salon in Havana. I’m sure the Instituto pays her the usual Cuban salary of about $20 a month, and it’s not like she needs a government job to get health and dental. I can’t imagine that the tips are that great, unless she gets a lot of foreigners coming in from the five-star hotel just three blocks away. Regardless of her reasons for working in the Instituto, her home business is a way for her to make ends meet so she doesn’t have to rely solely on her government salary and ration booklet for herself and her two children.

As I left, she scribbled her e-mail address on the back of her card, asking me to look for wax for her next time I left and came back, and to let her know how much it cost. Hopefully I’ll be able to add international wax mule to my list of accomplishments…

Can you hear me now?

23 Dec

After “If You Give a Mouse a Cookie”

If you get a cell phone in Cuba…

Then you will need to ask your friend to put the number in his name.

If he puts the number in his name…

Then it will cost $40 for just the SIM card, number and some credit.

If he goes to the Cubacel office…

You all will wait in line for three hours.

If you finally get the SIM card…

You will need to put it in a phone.

If you buy a phone in Cuba…

It will cost $135.

If you bring a phone from home…

It will need to be unlocked.

If you try to unlock it…

You will have to find someone who can get the code.

If that someone gets the code…

It will take him a whole day.

If you go back after that time…

You’ll find out that your code takes three more days to be downloaded.

If you ask your parents to do it for you using first world Internet…

You’ll discover that you have to pay a company for the code.

If you try to get a cheap phone for your friend…

The sketchy “Movil Land” men will find one for you.

If you go to pick up your cheap phone…

You will be welcomed by a black out.

If the lights come back on…

The “Movil Landers” will give you a phone.

If you want to use the phone…

It only works on speakerphone.

If you decide to come back later for a different one…

You will ride your bike for an hour there and an hour back.

If you get a different phone…

It will work, but have no charger.

If you try to get a charger that doesn’t belong to the phone…

The phone will be ruined and rendered useless.

If you finally get the phone and its proper charger…

You will pay $0.45 a minute to make calls and $0.09 per text.

If you run out of credit on your phone…

You will wait in line again to buy more.

If you don’t buy $5 every month…

You will lose all of your credit and the line itself (after two months).

If you lose the line because you don’t put credit on it, you’ll have to ask that friend to put another in his name. All because you tried to get a cell phone in Cuba.

Bring (lots of) tampons and other secrets of packing for Cuba

10 Dec

(This is a work in progress, but I’m writing my “Georgia’s Cuba Survival Guide” for a friend who will be studying in Cuba, and want to share part I for all potential study abroad, mission trip or cultural trip participants)

You are going to Cuba. Lucky you. As trite, cheesy, or cliché as this sounds, be prepared to have your life changed. You have to go to this country with an open mind, lots of patience, and as few expectations or pre-conceived notions as possible. The thing about Cuba is that YOU have to experience it for yourself and draw your own conclusions (something that I suppose is true about everywhere, but Cuba in particular considering all of the “bad press” around it).

This “survival guide” is by no means comprehensive or exhaustive, and is based solely on my personal experiences, mainly in Havana. Bear in mind that Havana is the capital, where a good fifth or sixth of the population is concentrated. The standard of living is very different here than the rest of the island, but it’s still a significant representation.

So, let’s get started. Packing. The charter companies that operate flights to and from Cuba are changing their policies, and the policies usually differ from charter to charter, so research the checked bag fees, carry-on fees, and overweight charges for whatever your flight is. In my experience, it’s been one carry-on that is 25 pounds or less for free, and first-checked bag $25, as long as it’s 50 pounds or less (it used to be first-checked bag free, but for some reason that’s changed). Be prepared to see people with all kinds of crazy shit in the airport that they are taking to Cuba. Popular items include: kitchen appliances, bicycles, flatscreen televisions, sound systems and food from Costco. They will have to pay a lot of overweight fees, and customs taxes in Cuba. You should try and avoid that—pack as lightly as possible.

On the way back from Cuba, you don’t usually have to pay for your bags, but you do have to pay a $25 CUC departure tax, and if your bag is egregiously over 25 kg, you might have to pay something (but pulling the “No hablo espanol” card can be effective here I’m sure).

You’re probably asking yourself “What the hell should I put in this bag that may or may not cost $25 to check?” Fear not friends, the answer is forthcoming. If you’re going for a month, bring 10 days or so worth of clothes. Don’t worry, Cuba is not a barren wasteland, you can wash your clothes. Bring LIGHTWEIGHT CLOTHES that you can mix and match. Unless you are going there for maybe a week in January, it will be warm and humid. Ergo, shorts, tank tops, sundresses, skirts, t-shirts, and short-sleeved shirts are all good options. I recommend a pair of jeans or long pants for going out, particularly for gentleman. Certain clubs, bars and other places will not let guys in if they are wearing shorts, flip-flops, or t-shirts, so (ladies and gentleman) bring at least one nice outfit. Another recommendation (depending on the length of your trip)—coordinate with the people in your group about clothes that you can mix and match with. Wearing the same shit for several months gets really old, really fast (call me a materialistic American, but it’s true).

As far as shoes go, comfort is king here. The sidewalks are all cracked and uneven, and more likely than not, you’re going to have to do a good amount of walking no matter where you go. Ladies, if you want to bring heels, bring lower heels that you are comfortable walking long distances in (I have a pair of 2” wedges that are PERFECT for every situation in Cuba). You will see women out wearing four and five-inch heels—they are idiots. Or jineteras (prostitutes). A pair of comfortable tennis shoes, sandals, Vans, Toms, Keds, or whatever will also be useful here for every day wear and tear.

You can buy toothpaste, shampoo, soap, and other toiletries in Cuba, but if you have a brand loyalty, bring your own (you can always leave what you don’t use if you don’t have room for it in your bag on the way home). Ladies: BRING FEMININE HYGIENE PRODUCTS. You will be  hard-pressed to find tampons in Cuba, and if you do find them, they will be expensive and suck. Less is not more in this case—COME PREPARED.

If you have room in your bag, I’d recommend bringing some non-perishable snacks like almonds or granola bars, because eating in Cuba sometimes just doesn’t happen, particularly breakfast, and if you are hyperglycemic, or are used to breakfast and snacking, it’s best to bring a little something for yourself.

Another good idea to coordinate with each other on might be things like an iron, straighteners and hair dryers, if you rely on those things (split up who brings what and then share, just to save room in your bag).

Bring sunscreen and sunglasses, and use both DAILY. You will get sunburned at some point, so protect your delicate American skin from the relentless Caribbean sun.

Money: Cuba has a dual currency system. There are Cuban Convertible Pesos (CUC) and Cuban National Pesos (CUP). 1 CUC is pretty much equivalent to one USD, and spends about the same way. There are 25 CUP to 1 CUC. You will probably want to order Canadian dollars before you leave because there is a 10% tax on changing American dollars to CUC, and the exchange rate sucks anyways. Bring a few copies of your passport, because usually when you change money in a CADECA (Casa del Cambio) or hotel, you need to show a copy of your passport. As far as how much money you bring, it’s up to you and what you plan on doing. If you are smart, you can go out pretty inexpensively ($10-$15 CUC a night for cover/drinks/transportation), and you can also eat pretty cheaply, especially if you hit places that sell food in CUP, but more on that later.

My good neighbor

17 Sep

I saw a quote that said “Outside books, we avoid colorful characters.” I couldn’t disagree more. A colorful cast of characters is what makes life interesting and exciting, and I’d like to introduce you to my housemate, Kyle, one of the most unique personalities I’ve met in a while.

On the surface, he’s just another fratty College of Charleston business school graduate—tan, blonde and wearing the requisite uniform of a pastel polo and some Vineyard Vines buttercup yellow shorts. But thinking that Kyle is just a frat boy is like thinking that 50 Shades of Grey is a how-to manual for painters.

A few days after I moved into my new apartment, I walked in the living room to find him on the couch, intently focused on his iPhone, a homemade water balloon launcher sitting on the coffee table. I politely asked about his day, and was regaled with a tale of him spending the better part of his Sunday hungover and hunting the supplies to create his own water balloon launcher when failed in his attempt to buy one from Target. This was a solid investment for Kyle since, as he informed me, many of his Friday and Saturday evenings are spent on the roof of our house throwing water balloons at the drunk bitches that stumble down the street, unaware that a sniper lies in wait.

I was impressed by his craftiness and tenacity in assembling his own launcher; traits I would soon learn very well characterize Kyle and his bizarre assortment of hobbies, that include combing a nearby river for fossilized sharks teeth and selling rare animal pelts.

Kyle’s tenacity really shines through with his passion for spear fishing. I was treated to the fruits of his labor one evening when I came home and found my roommate, Tessa (a phenomenal cook), in the kitchen with pounds and pounds of freshly caught fish, compliments of Kyle. Apparently, he had gone out into the ocean, free dove with a semi-automatic weapon, and shot the hell out of five different species of fish, which Tessa then turned into a mind-blowing succulent four course dinner. Kyle spear fishes recreationally, but makes a nice little income with his hobby, occasionally selling his catches to some of Charleston’s finest restaurants.

Though I think Kyle’s future is bright, I really love to hear about his childhood in Colorado, where he was a champion laser tag player in his local arena and was selected to have his image on a Boy Crazy trading card.

That’s right. Fourteen-year-old Kyle (spiked blonde hair and all) was chosen from dozens of hopefuls at a mall in Colorado one fateful day to have his picture, and relevant information (height, Zodiac sign and favorite activities) put on a trading card that was then marketed to teenage girls across the nation. Boys from every state, ages about 13 to 22, were put on these cards, which I guess the creators thought would be the equivalent of Pokemon cards for tweenie girls. Somehow Boy Crazy didn’t take off, maybe because once you traded a couple of Johns from Kentucky for a Stuart from Nebraska, there wasn’t much else to do, but Kyle holds on to his Boy Crazy trading cards and somehow manages to use them to pick up girls (pity date maybe?).

Kyle is unpredictable, at times simultaneously incredibly sweet and incredibly douchey, but easily one of the most fascinating housemates I’ve ever had, and probably ever will.

For free speech, that was pretty damn expensive

1 Sep

 

Conner Gorry, author of one of my favorite blogs hereishavana.wordpress.com, and essentially who I want to be when I grow up, describes most people’s reactions and opinions regarding Cuba as “polarized” and “bombastic.” Maybe because I live in the South and people are too polite to say what they really think, I haven’t experienced any strong reactions when I tell people I’ve spent time in Cuba. However, a Nigerian cab driver who delivered me from the Tampa airport to my friend’s house to pick up my car after I returned from Cuba had a very strong (and ill-informed) opinion about the island that he repeatedly referred to as  “rogue nation.”

Let’s back up. It’s 12 p.m. and I just walked through the automatic sliding glass doors to the “Ground Transportation” area of the airport, wheeling my clunky gray Swiss Gear suitcase behind me, already exhausted from being up since 5 a.m. and going through customs in Cuba and the U.S. and preemptively exhausted from the seven hour drive to Charleston that looms in front of me. I hop into the first available cab, a nondescript grey sedan, give the driver the address, and watch him punch it into his cell phone while maneuvering out of the airport, thinking that dying at the hands of a cab driver in the Tampa Bay area would be an unexciting end to what has been a very eventful last few months.

When he gets going, he asks me where I came from, and I told him Cuba. He said that he’s never been, but would like to go and reached over to the front passenger seat and grabbed a massive book and held it up for me to see—Fidel Castro’s autobiography.

“I’m reading this. This man is nuts,” the driver declared, “He’s unstable. He’s taken the country hostage. You can’t do that. People are suffering there!”

I was completely taken aback. It’s not like Cuba is one giant leper colony.

“Umm…I wouldn’t say they’re necessarily suffering, I mean, I’ve spent four months there…”

Despite having never set foot in the country, this man, apparently, was very well-informed about the quality of life in Cuba.

“Oh no, they’re suffering. You’ve just been brainwashed by the Communists.”

Excuse me?

I realize that the majority of the time that I have spent has been in Havana, the capital city, where the standard and quality of life is probably significantly higher than the rest of the country. I know that the country isn’t industrialized or very wealthy—the average Cuban’s salary is approximately equivalent to $20 a month—but the people I saw weren’t out in the streets dying of infectious diseases without access to clean water.

“No I haven’t,” I said, “I’ve just seen what I’ve seen.”

“You have a boyfriend there don’t you?”

Guilty.

“What does he do?

“He’s a student.”

“His parents must be wealthy then, and work for the government so he can afford to go to school.”

“Well actually, education is free there. He doesn’t have to pay to go to school.”

This assertion of a true, easily provable fact apparently was just me spitting socialist propaganda.

“You’ve been brainwashed. It’s a rogue nation,” he insisted again.

“Ok, what do you mean by ‘rogue nation’?” I asked, wondering how he defined one and where exactly he got his information from (seeing as how he had earlier informed me that he was a ‘scholar’ and did a lot of self-studying).

“Fidel Castro has taken the country hostage. We live in an evolved world and capitalism is the only way. He needs to renounce communism so the U.S. will trade with them and free his people.”

Interesting thoughts friend.

“Yeah, but what about China?” I asked, “They’re communist.”

He dodged the question.

“One person cannot rule a country for so long. It’s just not right! Fidel Castro is not qualified. He is a fighter, he doesn’t know anything about leading a country.”

Fidel Castro went to law school and became a lawyer, a path that, unless I’m quite mistaken, many U.S. presidents have also taken, including the one in office right now.

I was spared from sharing that tidbit with him as we arrived at my friend’s house, an hour after leaving the airport.

“You know, I like the way you think,” the driver told me, “You’re questioning things, experiencing things. That’s very good.”

A little bit surprised and slightly mentally exhausted from his constant attacks, I thanked him and looked at the meter to see how much I owed. $58. Damn. He was exercising his right to free speech, but I certainly had to pay for it.

 

*Note: Higher education is free in Cuba, but students do have to “pay” for it in a sense, with a year of military service (for guys) and two years of “social service” after graduation (essentially two years of internships). Regardless, students aren’t plunged into a decade of debt just to get a degree, which is kind of neat.

*Also note: I’ve still got a LOT to learn about Cuba, and, dear readers, I hope to impart that knowledge as I learn it. I recognize there are successes and failures of the Revolution, and, like all systems, nothing is perfect. This is merely a space for me to share what I’ve seen and learned, and I hope that it motivates you to try and experience Cuba for yourself and form your own opinions.

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